Over the lunar new year holidays in 2025, I went to Vietnam for a week; with
my family for the first 4 days, and solo the last 3 days. I'd like to take
some time to reflect on the trip. With Hanoi being a popular travel spot in
SEA, I hope this information could be of use to interested travelers.
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An ingenious idea... Constructing several "peaks" for the masses to take
photos with.
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The Planning
Itinerary
I planned loosely around the main thing I wanted to do: Conquer mount Fansipan
in Sa Pa. Everything else, I just made sure I was hitting certain locations
like the old quarters, but no specific spots for food and shopping.
-- With family --
- Day 1: Exploring Hanoi Old Quarters, night train to Sa Pa
- Day 2: Exploring Sa Pa Centre
- Day 3: Go up Fansipan, night train to Hanoi
- Day 4: Exploring Hanoi West Lake and Old Quarters
-- Solo --
- Day 5: Exploring Ba Dinh area, Old Quarters
- Day 6: Day trip to Ninh Binh
- Day 7: Lunch with Hanoi friend before flight
Itinerary-wise, this was rather tight. A night train meant we had a whole day
to explore the area, which was plenty of time, all the while saving on a
night's worth of hotel fees. However, it also meant we had no hotel room to
rest or refresh ourselves. In particular, having to wait for the train to
depart at night, and having hotel check-ins in the afternoon meant no proper
showers for a long period. I made a mistake planning a train back to Hanoi the
night of my Fansipan hike, which meant I went a day without showering after my
hike. Thankfully, the weather was frigid with strong winds, especially at the
summit. I didn't stink and didn't sweat.
Since we arrived during the lunar new year, or Tết, many shops were closed on
the first few days. It was a completely different Hanoi when we first touched
down versus the last few days (Tết celebrations ended on Monday, 3 Feb, and
most businesses resumed then). I expected we would see a unique side of
Vietnam with Tết celebrations, but we didn't encounter much. What we
did see were loads of families dressed to the nines crowding the busy
streets, and that was a sight to behold. Everybody looked so good. Perhaps I
could have planned better to seek out festivities, but I wouldn't say it's
worth going during this specific period as shops are closed.
Climbing Fansipan
On to the main event! I climbed Fansipan in a day, which means I started early
in the morning (around 7?) and reached the summit at noon. Despite its
relatively low elevation of ~3k meters, it's extremely steep. Each step took
the wind out of me. For my Hmong guide, it was a regular weekday. I thought it
would be easy, but I got Hmogged by him.
"We do this not because it is easy, but because we thought it would be easy."
It was only later when I told my friends about the trip that I realised how
much of a feat it was to climb it in one day, let alone by noon. Most climbs
up Fansipan take 2D1N. There are two rest stops along the trail, where you
have lunch on the first and sleep in the second, resuming the climb the next
day. For me, I skipped the first rest stop and had lunch at the second. This
took about 3-4 hours, and the remaining climb another 2-3 hours.
Once you reach the top (but not the summit), you'll be at the base of a very
large temple, where the people come exiting out of the cable cars. There are
steep stone stairs up to the summit, which are another half an hour. I was
buffeted by strong, icy winds at the top, and it was too cloudy for a nice
photograph. Oh well, I made it, and tasted victory, which tasted like...
Chocolate, actually.
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Who thinks of selling ice cream in cold places?! ... and who thinks of
buying?
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Guide
Information online is conflicting. Climbing Fansipan is no joke, and you
need to have a guide. The route was rather straightforward, but the
guide will help sort out your permit and rest stops along the way. Also,
because of the cable cars, you hardly see anyone on the trail. I ran into only
a handful of people along the way. It's no good to be alone on a mountain. I
was recommended
Sapa Trekking Hiking Tours
by my Vietnamese friend and they delivered. Fast to respond, English speaking,
and they settle everything you need, also including taxi before and after the
hike, and cable car/funicular tickets if needed. I requested for them for my
family to join me at the peak, and I wasn't going to climb down on foot, so I
also got myself the tickets.
Altogether, I paid about $230 USD, which would have been cheaper (per pax) if
I had gone with a group. $90 for 1 pax hike, $35 x 3 for cable car, $7.5 x 3
for the funicular, and $5 x 2 for the transportation.
Supplies
Hanoi has several winterwear shops of questionable authenticity. Fortunate for
me, because I desperately needed more coverage than had I packed. Even Hanoi
was unbearably cold for my ever-loving tropical sunshine self, so Fansipan
would have killed me. I wore three layers — of which two were purchased from
Hanoi — during the hike and it still wasn't enough to stave off the cold
completely, which was intensified by the dampness.
I did have a hearty breakfast before departing, but I should have brought more
snacks for energy. I was very much winded up until we reached the 2nd rest
stop at 10am, where the guide prepared instant noodles with egg, and gave me
fruits, Oreas, and soy milk as well. Having warm food when I was already half
freezing to death kept me going for the last leg of the climb.
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Salvation!! |
Experiences and Recommendations
Hanoi
I did enjoy the shopping at Hanoi (primarily the old quarters). Sue me for
buying counterfeit, but a part of me believes the goods touted are actually
genuine, from the same factories, but somehow bootlegged out into the
stores... Surely, someone along the way must have thought to smuggle some
goods out of the factory line right? Nonetheless, they are quite convincing
fakes. I'm not a good haggler, never will be, but I was fortunate to have my
brother present to do the talking for me.
After a while spent in Hanoi, things in the Old Quarters got repetitive. I had
wanted to buy some nice-looking propaganda posters but the nice shops were
closed and the not-so-nice prints I didn't bother.
I did spend some time out in the West Lake area, but didn't really explore
that much. I will have to say the bookstores are nice and there are always
nice cafes for you to visit. My Vietnamese friend informed me that it was a
place where expats congregated.
If there is one thing you must do, please go watch a water puppet show.
PLEASE! It was the highlight of my trip, despite costing so little and being
so short in duration. It truly was so creative, unique, and funny. I felt
connected to the culture through the theatrical experience, I was almost
brought to tears. I opted for the translation device, which has a little
earpiece that doesn't directly translate the dialogue at all, but rather gives
you background knowledge on what is being shown. I went to
Thang Long Theatre.
Also, do go check out Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum while you're in town. It's a
fairly orderly site where you follow a line and get to see Uncle Ho. It should
go without saying, but dress respectfully, no hats, and no photographs either.
He's very well respected by his country. Within the compounds, you also get to
see his old house. It's actually quite nice. I don't think I had to pay for
anything. I didn't enter the museum, however.
I stayed at
Hanoi Marvelous Hotel and Spa
while in Hanoi, and it served my needs well, being rather near to the old
quarters and Ho Hoan Kiem. The breakfast was rather limited; you could have
two servings of pho, pancakes, french toast, or eggs... Every morning, I had
pho (different meat each time), and eggs/toast. There was also a small buffet
section where I helped myself to sausages, cheese, bread, and the occasional
vegetable or Vietnamese food (I don't recall the food being something to write
home about). The hotel service was overall great.
The first night, my mom and brother stayed at
The Oriental Jade Hotel, also
near the old quarters. I took a later flight so I didn't stay with them, but
it seemed nice when I went in to take a shower minutes before checkout. They
gave us some Vietnamese coffee and the accompanying drip filter (Phin), which
I put to use back in SG!
Food
Here are some nice food places I personally tried.
-
Bún Chả Que Tre
- Really good Bun Cha.
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Pizza 4P's Bah Khanh
- Every Vietnamese friend told me to try Pizza 4P's so I did. You also have
to get a reservation. The pizza was delicious of course.
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GoodTime Burger Bát Đàn
- The burgers were nice, and you have to try the Dream fries. I seriously
need to reverse-engineer the spice mix.
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Banh Mi 17
- On my very last night in Hanoi, I had Banh Mi, a Burger, fries, and a
beer. It was the best way to close off the trip.
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Banh Mi Paté Cô Hà 1
- Fast service and all-around good Banh Mi.
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Take Taco II
- Tacos were great, but I really LOVED their spring rolls.
Sa Pa town
I was enthralled by the town. It has a little old-timey vibe and gets really
beautiful at night. However, I was put off by the Hmong people who peddled
their wares. I know they are an underprivileged group in Vietnam, but it
pained me to see them trying to earn money in whatever ways they could, even
having the children dance on the streets. It just felt so demeaning (also, is
child entertainment worth as much as child labour if they wanted to have their
children work for money? Food for thought).
In any case, I bought a
Đàn môi as
a souvenir, and my mom got some pillowcases. Some of them will try to get you
to follow them to their village, and if that's something you'd like to explore
then go ahead. They aren't very pushy.
Next time, I would just get a hotel near the town. It wasn't too difficult
getting a taxi, but it was troublesome having to drive so to-and-fro the town,
where all the action is concentrated anyway, unless you wanted to be closer to
the Hmong villages or quiet nature.
Food
I don't have much in the way of food recommendations, but the
Sa Pa night market is a must-visit.
Affordable and delicious food, primarily BBQ, and some dried meats. I bought
some buffalo jerky and got to try horse and deer, among others? I lost track.
There are some carnival games and shops that sell clothes, toys, and souvenirs
too.
We wanted to visit
Banh Mi 911 but it was closed (or out
of Banh Mi) the day we wanted to visit, and we were out of town the next. My
personal 9/11.
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We went there twice.
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Ninh Binh
I had a bit of extra time in Hanoi, so I decided to book a day trip to either
Ninh Binh or Ha Long Bay. I chose Ninh Binh, and I took on my hotel's services
of arranging a trip, which led to me joining a tour group. Given that I
requested this on short notice, I was quite happy with the services, although
I was a little bored with Ninh Binh.
A bus picked me up at my hotel at 7AM, and we headed out first to Hoa Lu
Ancient Capital. This was followed by some cycling around the area before we
stopped for a buffet lunch at one of the hotels/homestays in the area. I quite
enjoyed the cycling, for the weather was perfect and I liked the peaceful
scenery, something different from Hanoi. The latter half of the day, we went
to the river, and then the Lying Dragon Mountain.
The river trip was BORING. I spent 1.5h on the boat being ferried and after a
while, I was getting cold... At the end of the trip, they ask you for tips. I
was at the tail end of my trip so I was only carrying spare change. Needless
to say, the lady was quite pissed off. Sorry.
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Some of the boaters rowed with their feet, which was quite interesting.
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The dragon mountain was cool. It wasn't very high, not a challenge at all.
Interestingly, it overlooked the river which we had just gone to. Anyway, for
a day trip to Ninh Binh, it checked all the boxes for places people would want
to visit, but I found it underwhelming. We were dropped off at our respective
hotels around 8pm. I can't imagine how I'd have planned it differently anyway,
so it was nice to just say I've been there, and move on.
Others
Trains
There are two options for night trains: King and Chapa Express. We took King
from Hanoi to Lao Cai, and Chapa on the way back. Chapa is just better in my
opinion. First of all, there are charging ports in the cabins. Chapa also had
an on-train menu, and we got some beers and snacks from the trolley. You can
even rest at the Chapa lounge at Lao Cai station. They were both clean and
comfortable. As I've mentioned, these sleeper trains save you a night of
hotel's stay, but you will be out of a place to freshen up unless you have
early check-in, so do take note.
Clothing
I don't know if it was because of Tết or if uncles just have that much drip,
but just about every uncle I saw was slaying the house down in their suits.
Vietnam is known for some of its tailors, whose services are pretty fast and
affordable. I hadn't planned to tailor a suit, but I feel I should have. All
those uncles must have gotten their suits locally, and they were walking
advertisements to the quality of suits in Hanoi to me.
I also met this weird guy at my hotel. He approached me at breakfast and spoke
in an unsure, muffled manner, but I could tell he was from China and so I
tried to speak Mandarin to him. Even then, he didn't speak very clearly. All I
could gather was that he was there for parties... Maybe a sex tourist? Hahah.
I never really got a proper answer. He did weird out the restaurant staff who
afterwards asked me what his deal was.
Hanoi's great. As a Banh Mi lover, I was disappointed, but apparently they're
more known for their Bun Cha, with HCMC being the place to go if I want to
explore good Banh Mi. I suppose it's a great stop for clothes and food. As my
first foray into Vietnamese culture, it was a pleasant one. P.S. With the
Vietnamese language having Chinese influences, I thought about how the written
language is basically permanently in Hanyu Pinyin.